Creating customized color and a signature style means partnering with clients to achieve a deeper emotional connection. Did your gossiping-girl radar just go off? That’s not the kind of connection I’m talking about. The best consultation stays within professional boundaries, but also uses lifestyle and life-changing events as the basis for color change. Let me elaborate:
Recently, a client of mine who is an early retiree told me she was getting a divorce. She’s about 90 percent gray, has a cropped cut and recently got stylish new glasses. By first zeroing in on her lifestyle changes and her need for a pick-up, and then considering the technical aspects of gray, I was able to take a fresh approach, blend her gray and add face-framing highlights that looked awesome with her new, rectangular, patterned frames.
Life-altering events like new jobs, weddings, class reunions and more can all act as a positive impetus for color reinvention—or renovation. Lifestyle consulting always takes them into account, and as a Lifestyle Colorist, I can tell you that my consultation approach sets me apart from the 200,000 other salons—and hundreds of thousands of colorists—in the country.
By putting the event first and the technical details second, I’ve also set myself up to add a value, for instance, by suggesting a shift from black eyeliner to brown/black. After all, I’m basing my suggestions on how lifestyle and events relate to overall image. Just remember to use personal information judiciously. As a reason for a customized color suggestion, even a 10-hour drive to visit the folks can be a call for transformation.
A haircolor Consultant for Redken 5th Avenue and a working salon colorist, David Stanko has been featured in the pages of top fashion publications, including Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, In-Style, Latina and Elle. Stanko recently released his first DVD that explores the “or†in haircolor, Lifestyle Color. To find out more, view his work or send him a question, visit davidstanko.com
I have a new client that wants to go from black to medium brown.She has fine hair and not in the best conditon.She is a professional business and very public person.Sixty years old,just below the chin length bob.What steps do you suggest for a color correction? Thank you! dn
David sent in this response:
Dear Danny,
I recently had a similar situation and here’s how I handled it. First, test the strand with powder lightener + 20 volume. Place a foiled piece (below the crown) and set a timer for 20 minutes, but check your results in 10 minutes. You must-must spin the woman around, hand her a mirror and check the color together. You’re likely to see yellow blonde, blood-orange, mahogany red brown and then, black.
Clients must understand that “once you go black…its hard to go brown!”. Set a goal – in six months, Mrs.Smith will have more of a brown haircolor. Gradually lighten her base formula (begin to add level 3 or 4 shades into her black base formula), suggest frequent trims, conditioning treatments and suddenly one day you’ll know when its right to add a few fringe or face-framing highlights; that can be toned with Shades EQ 08GN Ivy and 09N Cafe Au Lait to keep the auburn under control.
Happy Coloring, David Stanko