On the Road with John Simpson: Color Stories

“I have a client that the grey still won’t cover. What do I do?”
“I have a client who is a level 3 and wants to be a pale cool toned blonde. How do I get it there without damage?”
“How do I clean up a canvas that has multiple banding without using bleach?”
“My reds turn brassy … My brunettes are too dark … What about dimension?”

Sound familiar? Read on.

Recently, I had the privilege to present a wicked program called Correct It Creatively at the Goldwell Academy in Baltimore with my BGF Deb Gavin. Together we told the full color story about how to take everyday questions and problems and conquer them easily and intelligently. In this two-day course, we uncovered and explored the tools that we use daily and learned their total potential. Most often, we need to ask the question: “How much of your work is a corrective situation?” More than likely, it is about 90% of your daily services.

Most clients have some sort of color in their hair, so how do we make the changes without the easy thought of a mini foil at the part line and around the face to camouflage the inaccuracy of matching tones? Also, if a client wants to flip into another shade or tone, how do you change it easily without always running for the bleach? By looking deeper into the color tools, you can take a canvas to a lighter shade with blonding tools or even the placement of a contrasting or reflective shade to give the illusion of lightness.
When approaching a canvas, don’t run into it blind, or with the same old ways. Step away and think about where you are now and what tools would best conquer the problem.

A situation you may encounter is thinking that your level 4 client that wants a level 7 range gets stuck in the “brassy” or “blorange” range. You try to neutralize without taking them too dark or making it opaque and you are so over using the “band aid” foil on the part to hide the “off” tone.

Advance your tools while incorporating a high lift and a target shade mixture together at the new hair with double the developer to achieve the lift! You may be thinking, “Great, then what about the ends that have color on them?”  Well, with a blonding cream or low ammonia cream system, paint into the shaft this mixture with double the developer and process. Clean off some of the old paint and after, finish with a neutral level overlay. This ensures an even clarity of color and has amazing durability!

In Goldwell speak……Use a mixture on the new hair of 40 mls 40 vol 15 mls 11G 5 mls 7MB. Through the ends…30 mls 40 vol 15 mls Blonding Cream Ash. Process then a color wash of colorance lotion 40 mls 15 mls 9BN 5 mls 7MB

Sound interesting? Well, through the ever-changing Correct It Creatively program you can find endless possibilities. Just when you then thought you pushed your knowledge and tools to the end…there’s more! Correct it Creatively 2 takes you into a deeper journey of seeing and thinking of color and color placement differently. Let down the barrier walls, and explore a whole new world of color!

I want to give a special thanks to all of the amazing participants who packed our full house of the Goldwell Academy @ Baltimore. It is always a pleasure to take a trip around the world in one room with every unique story and every individual style. Thanks for letting us all learn from each other and opening your mind and creativity to new creative ideas! Hope to see you soon. Remember complacency is the evil to creativity!

Knowledge is key, so don’t get caught in the same old situations. I truly enjoy sharing the ideas that drive me and my tools every day! Drop by to johncsimpson.com and leave a comment or a question.

I am off to Hawaii next, so more adventures on the way! Lets see what Oahu and Kona have in store for me? Remember that life is not a dress rehearsal…live it, love it and create it! WWJSD?

John Simpson is a Goldwell platform artist and salon partner at Lewis’ Hair Salon in Pittsburgh. He won the 2008 NAHA Colorist of the Year award, and was a finalist in 2009.

Kryolan Named Official Cosmetics Sponsor for Miss Universe 2009

Professional makeup company Kryolan has been named the official cosmetics sponsor for the 58th-annual Miss Universe Pageant, which will take place  August 23 at the Atlantis Resort in the Bahamas. Dominic Cruz, Kryolan’s education director and trainer, will coordinate and lead a team of international makeup artists in providing the makeup  for the contestants’ swimsuit, evening dress and interview looks. In the weeks leading up to the pageant, you can check the Kryolan website to follow the team’s preparations.

Sam Villa Lets the “Buzz” Drown Out the “Little Voice”

I’m frequently asked, “What’s the buzz?” For me, hair follows fashion. All year I’ve been talking about the collision of fabrics and silhouettes that sees, for example, a billowy chiffon skirt topped with a black cropped leather jacket. Metallics are the latest to enter into the mix, so a sexy, skintight bustier dress might be paired with a prim and proper cardigan sweater.

This trend is reflected in hair through multitextured finishing—a sleek ponytail that goes into an explosion of frizz, or an “undone” look created by crimping underneath and curling over it. Volume has been moving all over the head! It was on top at the diagonal, the way Amy Winehouse wears it, and then low to the nape. Now we’re seeing volume move back up to the crown.

Another trend is toward blunt, solid lines. Hairdressers ask, “What’s the strongest angle you’re cutting right now?” The best way to explain it is “short to long.” When I layer the hair and let go, the hair goes from short to long but produces gentle edges, while disconnection—the strongest element in design today—creates this season’s looseness. Fringes this summer are wide, blunt and heavy—or they can look chewed.

We’re seeing braids in various lengths and degrees of thickness made popular by TV shows like The Hills. You can braid just one side of the head, or you can take a braid from ear to ear so it has a headband effect. If there’s one shape that’s most popular, I’d say it’s the rounded braid.

So that’s the buzz, and lately I’ve been thinking how difficult it can be to hear it over what my favorite coach and motivator, Blair Singer, calls your “little voice.” I notice that other guests on this blog are talking about this, too: Eva Scrivo talks about facing your fears and Wendy Watkins encourages you to redirect negative thoughts. Fear, negativity and questioning yourself are all little voices that keep you from reaching the next level as a professional.

In the beginning of my career behind the chair, my little voice was saying, “Will she like the cut? Does she like me?” I wish I could have managed my little voice better. That’s why I warn young hairdressers about their own little voice. I try to get them to turn it around and discover the hero within themselves. I don’t want the stylists who take my classes to be unable to learn because in their heads they’re hearing, “It looks so easy until I try it,” or, “That’s not the way I like to do things.”

You can’t eliminate the voice, so don’t every try. It’s not always a bad thing; sometimes it serves you well. But you do have to learn to manage it. Recognize that it exists and listen objectively. Often you’ll realize that there’s a battle going on inside your head. It can be your confidence fighting your insecurity or your ego justifying poor behavior. If necessary, detach yourself and tell that little voice to shut up! Assess where the voice comes from and what triggers any damaging conversation. Your voice is the combination of the experiences you’ve had in your life, and once you identify those experiences, you can begin to reprogram the message.

Clients can be intimidating enough at times. You don’t need your little voice making it worse! Besides, you want to be able to hear the creative voice that often can’t get a word in edgewise!

—Sam Villa

Sam Villa has more than 25 years experience as a platform artist and educator for major salon professional companies. Part of the Redken family for the past 11 years, Sam is Redken’s Education Artistic Director and Design & Training Consultant and appears on redken.com as a spokesperson for consumer consultations. He is in constant demand at international and domestic trade shows and in-salon programs, where his progressive teaching approach enables stylists to absorb new techniques quickly and for practical use in the salon. In 2008, Sam launched his website, www.samvilla.com, along with his own brand of digital media education and styling tools for salon professionals.

Sam Villa Lets the “Buzz” Drown Out the “Little Voice”

I’m frequently asked, “What’s the buzz?” For me, hair follows fashion. All year I’ve been talking about the collision of fabrics and silhouettes that sees, for example, a billowy chiffon skirt topped with a black cropped leather jacket. Metallics are the latest to enter into the mix, so a sexy, skintight bustier dress might be paired with a prim and proper cardigan sweater.

This trend is reflected in hair through multitextured finishing—a sleek ponytail that goes into an explosion of frizz, or an “undone” look created by crimping underneath and curling over it. Volume has been moving all over the head! It was on top at the diagonal, the way Amy Winehouse wears it, and then low to the nape. Now we’re seeing volume move back up to the crown.

Another trend is toward blunt, solid lines. Hairdressers ask, “What’s the strongest angle you’re cutting right now?” The best way to explain it is “short to long.” When I layer the hair and let go, the hair goes from short to long but produces gentle edges, while disconnection—the strongest element in design today—creates this season’s looseness. Fringes this summer are wide, blunt and heavy—or they can look chewed.

We’re seeing braids in various lengths and degrees of thickness made popular by TV shows like The Hills. You can braid just one side of the head, or you can take a braid from ear to ear so it has a headband effect. If there’s one shape that’s most popular, I’d say it’s the rounded braid.

So that’s the buzz, and lately I’ve been thinking how difficult it can be to hear it over what my favorite coach and motivator, Blair Singer, calls your “little voice.” I notice that other guests on this blog are talking about this, too: Eva Scrivo talks about facing your fears and Wendy Watkins encourages you to redirect negative thoughts. Fear, negativity and questioning yourself are all little voices that keep you from reaching the next level as a professional.

In the beginning of my career behind the chair, my little voice was saying, “Will she like the cut? Does she like me?” I wish I could have managed my little voice better. That’s why I warn young hairdressers about their own little voice. I try to get them to turn it around and discover the hero within themselves. I don’t want the stylists who take my classes to be unable to learn because in their heads they’re hearing, “It looks so easy until I try it,” or, “That’s not the way I like to do things.”

You can’t eliminate the voice, so don’t every try. It’s not always a bad thing; sometimes it serves you well. But you do have to learn to manage it. Recognize that it exists and listen objectively. Often you’ll realize that there’s a battle going on inside your head. It can be your confidence fighting your insecurity or your ego justifying poor behavior. If necessary, detach yourself and tell that little voice to shut up! Assess where the voice comes from and what triggers any damaging conversation. Your voice is the combination of the experiences you’ve had in your life, and once you identify those experiences, you can begin to reprogram the message.

Clients can be intimidating enough at times. You don’t need your little voice making it worse! Besides, you want to be able to hear the creative voice that often can’t get a word in edgewise!

—Sam Villa

Sam Villa has more than 25 years experience as a platform artist and educator for major salon professional companies. Part of the Redken family for the past 11 years, Sam is Redken’s Education Artistic Director and Design & Training Consultant and appears on redken.com as a spokesperson for consumer consultations. He is in constant demand at international and domestic trade shows and in-salon programs, where his progressive teaching approach enables stylists to absorb new techniques quickly and for practical use in the salon. In 2008, Sam launched his website, www.samvilla.com, along with his own brand of digital media education and styling tools for salon professionals.

The First Lady Gets a New Look

Michelle Obama fooled everyone into thinking she had chopped off her hair last night when she debuted a shorter summer bob at a country music event at the White House. The First Lady’s hairstylist, Johnny Wright, later explained that Obama’s new ‘do was simply an illusion. To get the look, he pulled her hair into a low ponytail and tucked it under to create the appearance of a neck-baring bob. It’s amazing what a good stylist can do!

Will Ferrell Lets You Tan For a Cause

Funnyman Will Ferrell is lending his name—and his body—to a line of sunscreens that benefits the non-profit charity Cancer for College, which was started by Ferrell’s University of Southern California fraternity brother, Craig Pollard. Ferrell’s first foray into fundraising products for this cause, which he’s been involved with since its inception in 1993, has been a huge success, with 10,000+ Will Ferrell Sunscreen bottles sold since May. 100% of the proceeds go directly towards helping cancer survivors obtain a college education.

“Cancer for College is such a pure charity,” Ferrell said. “The work that Craig and Cancer for College has done helping kids who have had cancer go to college is so noble. I’m proud to help them any way I can and if that means adding my face to a line of sunscreen products, I’m all for it.”

“We are so proud how the product has performed,” said Pollard, a two-time cancer survivor and double amputee. “The feedback from everyone has been so positive. Everyone gets the humor behind it. None of this would be possible without our friend Will Ferrell and his generosity.”

Will Ferrell’s Sexy Hot Tan and Sun Stroke can be purchased for your salon’s retail section for $6.50 per bottle (MSRP is $11.99) by calling the Cancer for College offices at 760-599-5096. A third sunscreen, Forbidden Fruit, is only available online. All of the sunscreens are SPF30 and provide broad spectrum protection from UVA and UVB rays. The lightweight, aloe- and vitamin E-enriched sport formula is fragrance free, hypoallergenic and doesn’t leave a greasy residue. And how much fun would these bottles be to pass around on the beach?!

Breaking News: Ted Gibson on What Not To Wear

 

Me with Ted Gibson after MY hair makeover last summer

Although there’s been speculation for months (and Ted has tweeted about working on the show), it was officially announced today that celebrity stylist Ted Gibson will be the new hair guru on What Not To Wear. Gibson, whose clients include Anne Hathaway and Angelina Jolie, will replace Nick Arrojo on the popular TLC makeover show. Several episodes have already been taped, but Gibson’s first show will air this Friday.

Considering Gibson gave this editor a fabulous hair makeover at his NYC salon last year, we know he’ll do a fabulous job!

Napoleon Perdis Takes on the Vampire Vixen

Deborah Ann Woll as Jessica Hamby in True Blood

Is there any creature sexier right now than the vampire? The cute kids from Twilight, Rob Pattinson and Kristin Stewart, are steaming up screens, selling magazines and causing teenagers to go weak at the knees at public appearances. The cast of HBO’s True Blood is handsome enough to star in a Dolce & Gabbana campaign. Coming up this fall on The CW network is The Vampire Diaries with yet more snarky but sexy vamps. With their preternaturally pale complexions, gothic-inspired apparel and otherworldly mien, the vampire is even starting to have an influence on beauty. Suddenly cool girls are resisting faux tans and embracing their paleness. Pearly white skin, soft bruised makeup hues and an air of mystery are in.

Catherine Deneuve in The Hunger

Forget Nosferatu. Nowadays, he would be labeled a freakazoid with halitosis and laughed out of town. And Bela Lagosi seems overly camp. The modern day vampire is young, beautiful and virile. It was Catherine Deneuve in 1983’s The Hunger who first made vampires chic. As the decadent Miriam Blaylock, Deneuve sported cat eye glasses, soigne black dresses and matte tomato-red lips. In the more recent Queen Of The Damned, Aaliyah made an impression with her Ancient Egyptian regalia, golden skin and impossibly long lashes (maybe lashes grow when you’re buried in a tomb for two thousand years?). On True Blood it’s the flame-haired, alabaster-skinned actress Deborah Ann Woll who has my attention. When she gets ready to paint the town red, turning up at Merlottes for a pint of True Blood, her hair and makeup are exquisite.

There are some beauty lessons to be cribbed from the undead glamazon. First, embrace the skin you’re in and resist the bronze (for now). Second, stay out of the sun and never, ever, forget your SPF. Third, try experimenting with rosy blush, scarlet lips and edgier shades of nail color. This fall I’m introducing Black Sapphire, a matte black polish that approximates dark lady glamour. Fashion has certainly staked its claim on the territory, with endless designers referencing the transgressive mood. Obviously, avoid anything too literal. Pair the blood-red lips with jeans, the black nails with a metallic dress, the blush with a tailored jacket. And if you have the urge to bite someone, perhaps reconsider.

In 1995, celebrity makeup artist Napoleon Perdis debuted his line of cosmetics and launched his first concept store and Makeup Academy in Sydney. Today, Napoleon Perdis has 59 stand-alone concept stores and more than 800 point-of-sale locations across Australia and New Zealand. In the U.S., the brand has three Napoleon Perdis stores and is sold in select independent retailers. Celebrity fans of the brand include AnnaLynne McCord, Jessica Szohr, Lady Gaga, Becki Newton, Debra Messing, Lindsay Lohan, Amanda Bynes, Shenae Grimes, Whitney Port, Adrienne Bailon and more.

Friends of the High Line Summer Benefit

The Friends of the High Line hosted a summer benefit at Pier Sixty in Manhattan this June to celebrate the non-profit organization’s 10th anniversary. Honored were actor and board member Edward Norton and board members Lisa Marie and Philip Falcone. An after-party was held on the High Line itself. The High Line was built in the 1930s as part of a massive public-private infrastructure that lifted freight train traffic 30 feet into the air. In 1999, Friends of the High Line was formed to advocate for the High Line’s preservation and reuse as an open public space. I was invited to the event by Peter Lichtenthal, president of Bumble and bumble. Esteé Lauder, which owns the haircare giant, bought a table at the event, which raised more than $2 million to go toward the maintenance and operation of High Line Park.

Making Faces with Damone Roberts

Celebrity makeup artist Damone Roberts—you’ve seen him on TLC’s 10 Years Younger—hosted a group of makeup artists from all over the world at his New York City brow studio where they learned how to shape eyebrows just like he does. Roberts has encouraged his celebrity clients to autograph the wall of his bathroom where clients like Beyoncé and Star Jones have scribbled testimonials to the “Eyebrow King,” whose motto is, “Every face deserves the perfect frame.” Roberts invited Redken’s VP of Global Communications, Ann Mincey, to speak at the event where she provided copies of her book, Get Glowing, to attendees and motivated them to be their best selves.